The best way to countact wrinkles caused by the sun is to use sunscreen everytime you leave the house. Do you know that all you need to do to see what happens when skin is never exposed to the sun, is to  look at your behind. Unless you’re a nudist, your butt has never seen the light of day so to speak. There are no wrinkles on your buttocks.

You need sunscreen even on cloudy days. And experts remind us to use the creams on the backs of your hands, too. Many people treat their faces and shoulders but neglect their hands.Another way to prevent wrinkles, or at least slow them down, is to use creams that contai Vitamin A. Vitamin A stimulates the creation of collagen and prevents skin cells from breaking down.

Vitamin A can be used by younger people to keep fine lines from turning into deeper wrinkles. It is necessary to apply the cream daily and bear in mind that it will take about six months to see any results. Repairing the skin is a slow processs. If you choose not to see a doctor, there are several creams readily available over the counter.If the time frame for using the creams is too long for you, then you might consider a microdermabrastion or chemical peel administered by a dermatologist.

Chemical exfoliators work great on oil skin, while microdermabrasions are better for working on sensitive skin. Microdermabrasions get rid of fine lines and dead skin. These treatments also reduce pore size, redness and blotchiness.

Antioxidants are the bane of free radicals. Free radicals literally destroy skin. They are found in pollution, released by the sun, and caused by stress. Antioxidants  are found in green tea, the vitamins C and E and the enzyme CoQ 10.  They work together to neutralize free radicals, kind of like a multivitamin for the skin. Antioxidants come in both cream and pill form. Both forms are pretty effective according to the experts.

Topical creams are also used to battle crows feet and fine wrinkles around the eyes. If you don’t want to use chemicals there are many natural products that will work as well as the manufactured ones.

With the myriad of cosmetic products on the market today how does the consumer know which promises made, in fact, are delivered. Although the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) does not have oversight over the formulation of cosmetics they do have control over the claims a manufacturer makes about their products. The FDA has very specific guidelines separating a cosmetic from a drug.  If the claims a particular product makes results in a change in the structure or function of the body or if a product promises to treat or cure a condition then it is considered a drug and not a cosmetic by the FDA. Although some products appear to be cosmetics, the FDA considers them drugs. Examples of these are sunscreens and deodorants. Although on the surface they do not appear to be drugs, according to FDA guidelines they change the structure (preventing sunburn) or stop perspiration (function) and therefore, fall under the guidelines for drugs.

Once a product falls into the drug category, and this includes OTC or over the counter drugs, only ingredients approved by the FDA for use to treat a particular condition can be used to make a particular claim. The simplest example would be if I were to manufacture a cream to treat acne containing an ingredient that the FDA did not approve for the treatment of acne, then I would not be able to make the claim that my cream was an “Anti-Acne Cream”. Once a product has been defined as either a drug or an OTC, then the product label listing the ingredients must be divided in two categories, active Ingredients and inactive Ingredients. The active ingredients have to be listed in order of decreasing concentration while the inactive ingredients are listed in alphabetical order. For cosmetics where no claims should be made that might confuse the consumer into believing the product has drug properties no such separation of ingredients into the active and inactive need appear on the label. The ingredients need to only be labeled in order of decreasing concentration and not alphabetically.

The problem with most cosmetics that appear on the market today is that they make claims that would classify them as drugs and not cosmetics. The vast majority of cosmetics on the market are in clear violation of FDA guidelines but the FDA does not have the resources nor the inclination to stop this practice. Examples of cosmetics that make claims using marketing phrases like anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, removes dark circles under the eyes, reduces puffiness, thickens lips, etc., are in clear violation of the FDA. Obviously, no cosmetic exists that can stop the aging process and if a manufacture wants to sell a cream, serum, or fluid that claims to alter the structure of the body like eliminating wrinkles, spots, or dark circles than they must submit clinical studies following the same stringent rules and regulations that govern new drugs. Clearly, it is easier to make false claims then spend the millions of dollars involved in doing clinical studies and hope you do not get caught, at least not before you have made your millions.

Another area that the FDA tries to regulate is not only what the manufacturer says about a product but the impression that a product gives. The simplest example of this misinformation can be seen with sunscreens. Just look on the shelves of your local pharmacy and see sunscreen products offering SPF or sunburn protection factor as high as 70. The FDA has been grappling with how to deal with this misinformation.  The consumer assumes that a sun lotion with an SPF of 30 offers twice the protection as one with an SPF of 15. This, unfortunately, is a false assumption. A sun cream with an SPF of 30 only offers an increase in sunburn protection of 3% when in comparison to one with an SPF 15. There is practically no increase in protection in sun care products with SPF’s above 30, but it sure makes for a great selling tool for products with high SPF’s.

It is up to the consumers to educate themselves and have realistic expectations from their cosmetic products. Many studies do show that the ingredients contained in certain cosmetics have a beneficial effect. If a company wants you to buy their products they should offer information on their websites a tab that provides an abstract of the clinical evidence verifying the claims that they are making. The rule of thumb should always be Caveat Emptor, let the buyer beware

The first chemical we are going to discuss is called Padimate-O. This chemical is used to make the sun protection factor in sun blocks and other skin care treatments that contain SPF. For years, you have probably heard that you need this sun protection factor to be safe, but it turns out that this chemical can do you a lot more harm than good. The chemical Padimate-O has been linked to more than one type of cancer. Most people are under the impression that this sun protection factor will save them from getting skin cancer, but scientific studies have now shown that a poor diet is more closely related to skin cancer than the sun. Therefore, Padimate-O only increases your chance of developing skin cancer as opposed to decreasing that chance. If you want to protect your skin from the rays of the sun, use clothing and hats. There are also some natural lotions that will protect your face and skin from the sun’s rays as well. Another chemical ingredient that you will want to avoid is alcohol and other forms of alcohol. Ethyl alcohol, methanol or isopropyl are all forms of alcohol that you will want to watch out for. Alcohol will strip your skin of its natural acid mantle. Without this mantle, your skin will be more susceptible to molds and bacteria. Alcohol in all of its forms will lead to drying, which, in turn, leads to aging and age spots. The two alcohols that can be used safely are Cetearyl and Stearyl.

Acrylamide is the next chemical that you will want to avoid. This is a chemical ingredient that is found in many face, hand and skin creams. This chemical has also been linked with various forms of cancer. The next group of chemicals that you must avoid are artificial fragrances.  You may enjoy the scent of a skin care product, but you must stay away from products containing fragrances. Artificial fragrances can contain up to or exceed four thousand different types of chemicals. These artificial fragrances have been linked with everything from problems with the nervous system to hyperactivity. Mineral oil should also be avoided when choosing skin care products. Many moisturizing skin care treatments contain mineral oil. It may help to keep the moisture in your skin, but its heavy coat clogs pores and does more bad than good. Clogged pores can mean acne, heightened sensitivity to one’s skin and even premature aging.

There are no symptoms to warn you that you are developing age spots. However, if they change or get bigger after they appear then you need to see a doctor in order to rule out the possibility of precancerous or cancerous lesions. These spots are flat and vary in size, from very small to the size of a dime. More often than not they are round with irregular borders.  These spots develop on the shoulders, upper back, face, forearms and the back of the hands.

Since some age or sun spots resemble a cancerous condition called melanoma, it is important to see your doctor quickly if you sense a change in the spots on your body. He or she may need to perform a biopsy in order to rule out skin cancer. The absolute best treatment for age of sun spots is prevention. And the key to preventing these spots is to stay out the sun, or barring that, use sunscreen daily.  Once the spots have started to develop then there are many treatments available over the counter or through your dermatologist.

Over the counter skin bleaching creams help. However they are not an instant fix. These creams work over time, a long time. A doctor can prescribe something stronger, possibly a combination of medications that might work a little faster.  But even treatment with  prescription medicines will take a long time to show results. Another problem with the stronger creams is the danger for side effects, such as redness, drying or peeling. They are also expensive. The final downside is the creams may not work for everyone.

Dermatologists can administer a chemical peel that will remove not only age spots, but discolorations, wrinkles and fine lines. A chemical peel can also smooth and firm the skin. Superficial peels can be administered on an outpatient basis, say during lunch hour. Deeper peels require a longer recovery. Different kinds of peels carry different risks. Sometimes a series of procedures may have to be done and this of course, can cost a great deal of money.

Natural treatments such as azealic & kojic acid creams can do the job organically and gentler. Paphos Skincare’s Dermopeel cream has been tested and proven to help solve this problem and it also contains Lycopene which will hydrate and renew your skin.

The UV index is a daily forecast of the expected risk of overexposure to the sun. It uses a scale of 1-11 to predict the intensity levels of the sunshine. 1 is not bad, while 11 signals extreme risk.  And since the sun shines differently for every part of the country, the UV index is calculated according to zip code. Calculating locally takes into account other weather conditions including clouds in the area. So it is not just a blanket forecast for the nation. Weather changes according to locale and so does the UV index.

Sometimes, the EPA will issue a UV alert. This happens when the sun is particularly intense, with predictions running higher than 6.  But steps to protect yourself need to be taken every day regardless of UV alerts or where the index stands on any given day.  Anytime you go outside, you should put on sunscreen and that is where the SPF levels come into play.

You need to use a sunscreen strong enough to keep you from burning.  SPF stands for sun protection factor. The number does not tell you how long you can stay in the sun. The SPF number tells you how much protection from UV rays that the sunscreen gives.  In other words, a lotion or cream with SPF 15 filters out about 93% of UV rays, while a cream with SPF 30 filters out about 97% of UV rays. And wearing a higher number like SPF 45 will not allow you stay in the sun longer. This because the sunscreen wears off and becomes less effective. If you’re swimming or sweating the sunscreen simply washes away.

The rule of thumb is to apply sunscreen every couple of hours when you’re outside. Don’t wait to see your skin turn red. Sunburn sometimes doesn’t show up for 24 hours after the fact. So the best thing to do before going out for a day in the sun is to check the UV index for your area and make sure you have a sunscreen that will protect you. If you tan easily, you can use the lower numbered SPF creams. However, if you have very fair skin, very sensitive skin and you know you burn or redden easily, then you should be using the higher SPF creams for protection.

Facelifts are not necessary for anyone actually.  Facelifts are a cosmetic procedure done purely for a vain reason, not that there is anything wrong with that, but it is not a surgically needed procedure.  However, if an individual is bothered by excessive sagging skin around their face, jowls, and neck region, a facelift can correct this giving the individual back a toner appearance.  However proper skin care and diet in ones daily skin care routine and lifestyle will help an individual maintain great skin eliminating the excessive sagging skin or need for a facelift.

Prevention is the key in avoiding the need to go under a knife for a facelift. However, if one lacked the proper prevention their only recourse may be a facelift.  We can’t stop time, so aging is going to occur, only to what degree the aging process affects ones skin is dependent upon how serious they took their skincare.

Ideally, it would be in the best interest of a person if they were taught proper skin care from an early age and made it part of their daily lives.  However, reality is most do not start a good skincare routine until after they start noticing signs of aging or the effects from their environment or lifestyle.

It is never too late to start a proper skincare routine.  It can reverse some of the damages caused by environmental factors, lifestyle, and aging and bring your skin back to a healthier appearance and feel.  Altering your lifestyle habits, diet, and how you protect yourself from environmental factors can also help regain a healthy skin glow.

Eating a healthy diet, refraining from smoking, drug use, and excessive alcohol intake, and protecting your skin from environmental factors can do wonders for ones skin and overall health.  Exercise is also essential.  Exercise helps produce healthy endorphins and work toxins out of your body and skin.  It also helps an individual maintain a healthy weight level and toned muscles and skin that decrease the chances of excessive sagging skin.

By taking preventive measures early on, a person will not be as hard pressed to have to make the decision if a facelift is their last recourse to having a more youthful appearance.  They will not have to consider the risks of a surgical procedure nor the expense.  They will not be experiencing the tattletale signs of ageing, gravity, environment, lifestyle choices, and diet such as excessive skin, wrinkles, bags under the eyes, and skin discoloration and lack of tone.

No one can tell you if you do or do not need a facelift.  That is an individual decision that must be made between you and your physician and done so with careful consideration and knowing all of your options.  If you find yourself with a facelift procedure as your only recourse, make sure you after the face lift you begin a proper skin care routine to help maintain the facelift and the quality of your skin.  A facelift does not change the natural texture of your skin nor does it stop the natural ageing process or the effects the environment, lifestyle, or personal diet.  These are things only you can control and will make the difference in how long your facelift will last.  Educate yourself, know your options, and start a health skincare routine.

by Gary I Weinberger, MD

Asians comprise more than half of the earth’s population.  With changing demographics in the United States skincare professional will come in contact with an increasing number of patients exhibiting this ethnic skin type.  An understanding of the cutaneous problems exhibited by this increasing group of patients is of paramount importance.  Asian patients exhibit Fitzpatrick skin types III-V and treating this population is rarely written about.  When evaluating the skin differences between the various ethnic groups several bio-physical skin parameters are evaluated.  The most obvious difference between ethnic groups is skin color due to the presence of the photo-protective pigment melanin.  Other parameters to be considered are thickness of the stratum corneum (SC) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Changes in the physical properties of the skin, (SC) and (TEWL), show that with aging, darker skin types retain younger looking skin properties than do lighter skinned individuals.  This may be because these ethnic skin groups have a more compact stratum corneum (SC) and as a result have increased skin barrier function despite lower ceramide levels.  According to Rawlings et al, upon chemical and mechanical challenge the SC barrier function is reported to be stronger in subjects with darker skin.  One has to remember that barrier function relates to total skin architecture and not just ceramide levels.  Recent studies suggest that Asian skin types may be more sensitive to exogenous chemicals probably due to a thinner SC and a higher eccrine (sweat) gland density.  It is therefore important that consumers and skincare professionals evaluate the types of products that are best suited as treatment options and for daily use by these individuals.

Asians are prone to many of the pigmentary disorders seen in other ethnic groups.  Melasma, the so-called “mask of pregnancy”, freckles and lentigines are typical epidermal hyperpigmentary disorders, while nevus of Ota and acquired bilateral nevus of Ota-like lesions are common dermal hyperpigmentary disorders.  The nevus of Ota was originally described by Ota and Tanino in 1939 and is described as a tumor like accumulation of melanocytes in the dermis.  It occurs most frequently in Asian populations with an estimated prevalence of 0.2%-0.6% for Japanese persons.  It is uncommon in whites but may be seen in Africans, African-Americans, and East Indians.

Clinically, it presents as a blue or grayish-blue patch on the face.  It may be congenital or acquired, and it follows the distribution of the ophthalmic and maxillary branches of the trigeminal nerve.  Although its presence within the same family is rare, its prevalence among different populations suggests genetic influences.  Nevus of Ota can cause facial disfiguration and in rare cases develop into melanoma, which can be life threatening.  This condition also varies as to its onset.  The earliest onset of this condition is in infancy with as many as 50% occurring at birth.  The second period of onset is adolescence. Its appearance in adulthood and in the elderly is rare.

Similar to the African-American population, the Asian-American population is prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).  With increasing use of lasers for skin re-surfacing and other cosmetic procedures, prevention of PIH is of great interest.  Another source of PIH in the Asian population is acne, which is common in Asians. The goal in the treatment regimen of PIH is to eliminate the offending source of the inflammation.  One of the ideal treatments for acne in this population are azelaic acid based products.  Azelaic acid is a natural product derived from grain that is an excellent skin bleaching agent without the side effects seen with hydroquinones.  Other than its ability to lighten areas of PIH it is also a first line treatment for adult acne as well as other skin conditions like rosacea and eczema, and brown/age spots as a result of sun damage.  This acid works by inhibiting the action of the enzyme tyrosinase which converts tyrosine into the skin pigment melanin and thus lightens the affected area of hyperpigmentation.  In addition to its skin lightening ability azelaic acid is also bactericidal for the Proprion bacillus, the bacteria responsible for acne as well as an anti-DNA action that may reduce the scarring that may follow outbreaks of acne.  It is very important that the consumer and health care professional choose the right type of azelaic acid product.  This acid, other than the above mentioned qualities, also has antioxidant properties.  As such, it is prone to oxidation and deactivates on exposure to the air rendering in effective.  Look for products that are a single dose, individually sealed unit packaging.  In this way, you are guaranteed that the cream you are using is going to be full strength each time it is applied.

In conclusion, every once in a while there exists a natural product that does what it promises to do.  Azelaic acid is a multi-functional botanical that will lighten brown spots and even-out skin tone similar to hydroquinones without any of the associated side effects.  It is effective against adult acne, rosacea, eczema, and in a few human clinical studies it has been shown to be effective against certain pre-malignant skin lesions like lentigo maligno.    The multi-functionality of azelaic acid makes it an excellent all-in-one product that is both therapeutic and cost effective.  In addition to therapeutic treatments for hyperpigmentary disorders, it is very important to protect the skin against the damaging effects of environmental pollutants like the suns UV rays which can worsen these lesions.  Consumers should look for moisturizing products that contain high levels of antioxidants, like pure lycopene, that protect the skin from the aging effects of environmental contaminants and contain sunscreens that protect the skin from the damaging and aging effects of the sun’s UVA and UVB rays.

A healthy maintenance program for one’s body is eating a nutritional diet, refraining from smoking and drug use, limiting alcohol intake, regular exercise, ample rest, drink plenty of water, and getting plenty of (protected) sun and fresh air.  This will improve the condition and health of your skin, hair, and nails from the inside out.  This lays a great foundation for proper skin, hair, and nail care routines.

Your skin should receive a little extra attention due to the fact that it is the largest organ on your body, and it is your shield of armor.  If you do not do your part in protecting your shield of armor, your skin, it cannot effectively protect you and will begin to show the signs of damage from fighting the elements alone.

Your skin care routine does not have to be expensive nor extensive, just done on a regular schedule.  Be cautious when choosing your skin care products.  Many skin care products on the market today are made with toxic chemicals that can cause serious harm over use.  Skin care products do not require approval from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) nor is there any check standard for quality or proof of claim of benefits.  Often times the claims of benefits of skin care products are great exaggerated.

One way to choose quality products is by word of mouth from friends and families to see what has worked well for them. However, just because one product may have worked for their skin type and conditions does not necessarily mean it will work the same for you.  Another more effective option is to consult with an aesthetician.  An aesthetician can help you pick out skin care products specific for your particular skin needs.  They have access to skin care products that you would not otherwise available to you, and they usually know the outcome of the latest medical studies.

Skin care products that should include quality sun protection.  Some skin care products come already with a sun protection factor.  An aesthetician can help you to determine which sun protection method will be most efficient for you. You should be sure the cream protects you from both UVA and UVB rays since both may be harmful to the skin.

Nail care and hair care are just as important as far as appearance value as your skin. However, skin care does hold a bit more precedence over the two.  An aesthetician can also help you in the selection of other products that lack harmful chemicals.  A nail tech can help you learn a healthy nail care routine to minimize the risks of fungal and antibiotic resistant staph infections.  They can also share tips with you on proper cuticle and nail care.  Yes, you should regularly maintain your skin just like you would be your hair and nails if not even more so, after all, it is the only one you have and keeping it healthy should be second nature to us all.

by Gary I Weinberger, MD

Once again, the cosmetic industry has come up with their latest brainchild, anti-aging beauty creams and serums that contain human stem cells.  And once again I feel obligated to set the record straight on this latest fad, and, I might add, an expensive fad.

We have all heard about stem cell research but many are unfamiliar with what stem cells are and what they do.  We are certainly aware of the on-going public debate regarding this research and the harvesting of stem cells from human embryos.  Celebrity proponents like Nancy Reagan and the late Christopher Reeves argue in favor of increased government spending for this research while many influential conservative politicians and religious leaders offer arguments against.  Those in favor of this research point out the miracles that await us by developing embryonic stem cells for the treatment of spinal cord injuries, neuro-muscular diseases, and cancer.   Those opposed to the research make the argument that these advances are still in the experimental stages and what moral and ethical price are we willing to pay to make this dream a reality.  As in all hotly debated issues, the answer, most likely, lies somewhere in the middle.  There is one thing though of which I am absolutely certain, the millions of dollars spent to cure disease was never intended to create a plethora of beauty products whose primary function is to eliminate wrinkles and age spots.

According to the AMA’s ethics journal, the states rather than the federal government do the majority of the spending for human embryonic stem cell research (hESC).  The feds spend about $640 million annually for stem cell research and only about 6%, or about $40 million goes for hESC research.

The states, in fact, spend more than the feds on hESC with California being the largest funder of hESC in the world, budgeting more than $200 million for research.  Other states like New York, New Jersey, and Massachusettes have smaller but sizeable programs.  Foundations and private philanthropies are spending huge amounts of money on hESC, as much as $1.7 billion has been estimated over the last few years.

What are stem cells and what is their function.  Stem cells are found in all but a few multi-cellular organisms.  They are multi-potential cells that can renew themselves and develop into many different specialized cell types.  So, an undeveloped stem cell can basically transform itself into any other cell type that exists in the body for example, a nerve cell, a blood cell, connective tissue cells, and cells that make up the different organs of the body.  One can only imagine the potential to re-create healthy tissues destroyed by disease and injury or for that matter by Aging.

There are two general types of stem cells: embryonic stem cells isolated from embryos and adult stem cells found in adult tissues.  In the embryos, the stem cells have the ability to develop into all the specialized tissues of the body.  In the adult organism, stem cells act as a repair system and to replenish specialized cells in the course of their normal turnover in the body.  An example of this would be red bloods cells, skin cells, and cells of the intestinal tract.

Researchers believe that stem cell therapy has the potential to dramatically change the treatment of human disease.  Adult stem cell therapies already exist today, particularly in bone marrow transplants used in the treatment of leukemia.  Other areas of interest include ALS or Lou Gherig’s disease, Parkinson’s Disease, multiple sclerosis, cancer, and as mentioned earlier, spinal cord injuries.

It is beyond my comprehension to see the sobering connection between patients with spinal cord injuries and cancer to manufacturers and marketers hyping the next great breakthrough in wrinkle management by creating and marketing over-hyped stem-cell enhanced anti-aging skin creams.  Scruples- challenged skin- care companies hell-bent on adding a useless dab of stem-cells to “plump” up their coffers and help retailers remove the “wrinkles” from their bottom line will stop at nothing to make claims, that even they admit, have never been substantiated scientifically in an effort to cash in on the public’s never-ending thirst for the next “fountain of youth”.

Companies are hoping that these next-generation beauty products will generate huge profits on their lavish investments.  What they fail to tell you is that there is a potential safety issue involved in the use of these new creams and serums.  These companies harvest adult stem-cells from fat obtained from hospitals sources from patients undergoing lipo-suction and other surgical procedures.  The reason for this is that adipose tissue (fat) contains higher concentrations of adult type stem-cells than other tissues in the body.  This raises possible safety concerns about cross- contamination of these materials with HIV, hepatitis, and other infectious viruses and bacteria from infected patients.  It is obvious that these companies need to find a way to ensure that their products will not harm the health of consumers who use them and since the FDA does not regulate cosmetics, there is no guarantee that this will be done.

I have refrained from naming companies, products, and retailers who make and sell these products because the purpose of this article is not to point fingers.  My intention is to keep consumers well informed concerning claims being made that have no basis in fact.  I hope that I have accomplished this and I look forward to comments and questions.

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